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Big Belly has been expanding Orlando waistlines with hops and barley since 1999, which, when you consider how downtown churns through names and concepts, makes it one of the elders of downtown drinking. Sure, Big Belly used to actually brew its beer, but the place has lasted a decade by not changing a hell of a lot. You can still smoke inside, which has helped the “garage sale nailed to the walls” theming develop real patina. I think the “dancing” pole in the back is newish though.
Now, I hear that the chef at downtown up-and-comer Ember has redesigned the Big Belly menu. On my last visit in 2007, Big Belly's food was nothing special – hot wings and frozen pizza that almost didn't taste frozen. Now, the guy responsible for Ember's honey stung shrimp is involved, so I gotta go back and see what's cooking.
Scoping: I was really surprised how uncrowded this downtown bar can be. After all, Big Belly is on the second floor of the same building that holds the ground-level liquor slushees of Chillers (still smells way too much like industrial disinfectant in there) and the open-air rooftop bar Latitudes. Sure, you expect Big Belly might be slow at 6 p.m. on a weeknight, but even during (what turned out to be) the last game of the NBA Finals, I didn't have to fight for a barstool.
Drinking: The Big Belly special that most folks know about is Nickel Beer Wednesday, and yes, there's a catch. The Miller Lite draft is five cents but you can't bring your Webelos canteen. You have to buy a $3 mug at the door and it only works from 5 to 7:30 p.m. Still cheap, just not as cheap as it sounds. If you'd rather, domestic bottles are 75 cents during that same time while import bottles and cocktails are two-for-one.
The weekend specials are maybe more impressive. Friday nights, all drinks are two-for-one from 8 p.m. until close. Saturday nights from 10:30 to 11:30, all drinks are three-four-one. The bar's Web site also lists Monday night specials, but when I tried stopping by, the place was closed. Turns out Mondays are a dark night until the NFL is back in the fall.
Chewing: Big Belly still has hot wings, but the new menu has branched out into burgers and Mexican food and even salads. I still don't know exactly where the kitchen is, but I still assume there's no sautéing going on back there. Deep frying? Yes. Braising? No.
Mini corn dogs ($5.99) come with a side of honey mustard sauce. Just like eating at a mini state fair, I dissected one and discovered that the mini-dogs inside don't have rounded ends and look more like Vienna sausages.
Most Big Belly burgers are half-pounders, but the one actually called the “Big Belly burger” ($10.99) is made with two half-pound patties. Add cheddar and it's so thick that it's a challenge. You have to take a bite off the top half and then a bite off the bottom. No one asked how I wanted the burger cooked, so it came medium-well. The meat is a fine grind and dense, but flavorful. You get seasoned waffle fries or tater tots on the side.
The sesame chicken sandwich ($7.99) is made with a flat chicken breast of reasonable size, marinated in soy sauce, garlic, and sesame oil. Served with just tomato and shredded lettuce, it needs mayo or another condiment to moisten it up.
The meat lover tostada ($7.99) is topped with beef, chicken and pork — more a novelty than a recipe. A tortilla is deep-fried until crispy and topped with chili, cheese, lettuce, tomato, and enough of the three meats to make the description true. I think I could taste them all, but really, the whole thing was a retro flashback to my high school cafeteria. Not a slam – I liked my high school cafeteria. (Anyone else remember those stop-sign-shaped pizzas?)
Going: I've been to Big Belly multiple times in the last 10 years and always knew that the bathrooms are (cleverly?) labeled “Setters” and “Pointers” instead of “Women” and “Men.” Still, what did I do? Yep, walked right into the women's toilet without even slowing down. It's a tad cleaner in there, isn't it ladies?
Departing: Big Belly's menu upgrade isn't going to make it a venue for first dates or Grandma's birthday (not my grandma, anyway), but it does move from my mental list of “I need a drink” bars to the “I could use a beer and a burger” bars.
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