Tasty Wok

By John Graham

November 20, 2007

 

Tasty Wok
If you venture outside the world of pizza and burgers, you know that East Colonial is filled with inexpensive and tasty Vietnamese restaurants. The neighborhood isn’t all bánh mi and pho though. At the corner of Colonial and Shine sits Tasty Wok BBQ & Noodle Shop -- a popular Cantonese restaurant. To oversimplify, Cantonese cuisine is known for cooking lots of parts of lots of animals in lots of ways.

Tasty Wok is small, but not cramped. On my first Sunday visit, the center of the restaurant was filled with a big family: a dozen people from at least three generations, passing around a variety of dishes. Printed posters of the regular house specials hang on the walls. The specials of the day are marked by handwritten sings near the register. That’s also where you’ll see the clear case of hanging ducks.

Most of tasty Wok’s entrees run in the $6-$8 range, but as always, this is Cheap Eats and we’re scanning for sub-$5 items. After seeing those ducks on display, I fudged my budget by 25 cents for the appetizer of roasted duck ($5.25). I was just slightly disappointed by the rough-cut chunks. Fatty and rich, I like my skin a little crispier.

As you might guess, I was happier with the BBQ pig/crispy skin ($4.95). After all, “crispy” is right there in the name. Each chunk has a browned layer of crunchy skin, a layer of pork fat and a layer of meat. Served with a sweet brown sauce, it’s hog heaven. I advise you to share this one or the pork fat overdose could send you skyward too.

From the “snacks” portion of the menu, the waitress politely asked if I really wanted the duck feet and wings ($2). “Sure,” I say. “At $2, even if I don’t like it, it’s a bargain.” Served at room temp, it’s literally skin and bones and not much meat. It’s a little intimidating to bite the webbing out of a cold, cooked duck foot, but it’s ultimately like gelatinous chicken skin. I got six wings and five feet, so there’s either a very lucky duck out there or a very unlucky one.

Another snack, the scallion pancake ($2), is fried and cut into quarters. A bread that’s both crispy and chewy, I could see the scallions but not taste them.

Hot spicy beef tendon ($4.95) is translucent slices of a chewy loaf. The texture is JELL-O skin, but the flavor is like oxtail. Served chilled and sprinkled with sesame seeds, I enjoyed it much more after soaking the slices in my hot soup. That’s probably the cultural equivalent of drinking from your fingerbowl or putting ketchup on your waffles, but it worked for me.

About that noodle soup with roast pork ($4.95), it’s probably my favorite Cheap Eat of the night. Slices of barbecue pork are placed in a hot, rich broth with rice noodles, kale and broccoli stems. (Those would be the only vegetables I ate at Tasty Wok.) I’m an adventurous eater, but I was happy to find something I could afford that was also conventional.

Lastly, fish balls with curry sauce ($4.95) might make a fifth grader giggle, but it’s a decent Cheap Eat. The curry sauce is very mild though maybe a bit salty. The fish balls are surimi, that mixture of ground white fish and flavoring mostly seen in Western supermarkets as imitation crabmeat. 

Dish: The staff is friendly and pointing at the numbers next to menu items takes care of the slight language barrier. While I was waiting for a take-out order, the woman at the register stepped over to my table and gave me jasmine tea.

Damage: Tasty Wok has a few menu options that come in under a Lincoln, but also plenty of soups, noodle dishes and rice dishes that you’ll miss out on unless you splurge with that extra $1.95. 

Decision: Cantonese cooking at a reasonable price and a $2 dare the next time you want to see a friend eat duck feet.

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