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The Down Low: Uptown
The Digs: There’s almost as many new
restaurants downtown as there are empty condos, but Shin’s stylish but
thankfully not-too-trendy upscale casual atmosphere is well done. The place is
bright and airy thanks to ceiling-to-floor windows and walls painted in earth
tones; a water feature in the entrance keeps the mood elementally tuned. A
couple tables on the front patio let you keep on an eye out for any interesting
happenings on Orange Avenue.
The Delivery: Our waitress had a hip, expensive
haircut and a pleasant personality. Service was crisp and friendly, despite the
packed tables and a line to get in. My iced tea ($2) was refilled promptly.
The Dish: My guest and I both ordered from the
chef’s lunch combinations section of
the menu. These are like bento boxes, but the sides (miso soup, sunomono, and
small salad) are brought separately, not in a box.
The miso soup was... miso soup. There’s not
really anything distinguishing between one miso soup and another, is there? The
sunomono was in a very tiny dish,
and it had a nice zing, with cucumbers and other vegetables in vinegar
dressing. The small salad was almost impossible to eat, because it’s served in
a drinking glass that curves inward at the top. It was difficult to maneuver a
utensil to get anything out of the glass or to mix the ginger dressing. It was
passable, but frustrating.
Lately I’ve
been somewhat jaded about Americanized sushi rolls that mix things like peanut
butter, apples, and anything else in the fridge with fish. While these can be
fun to eat, half the time the order comes out tasting like dessert.
So I went
with the more traditional nigiri
moriawase ($16), 10 large pieces of fish that are usual Japanese standards.
To say that I was overwhelmed halfway into this plate of fish is an
understatement. All the fish seemed fresh, presented nicely, and banded by
nori, but by the time the octopus and eel loomed in the on-deck, I had to give
up. Nigiri fans will be quite pleased. Novices should stick to the rolls.
That’s just
what my guest did. Her pick-two makimono
combo ($10) let her choose from basic rolls. The fish fry rolls and vegetable
rolls she selected were both subtle, fresh affairs that compare favorably
to some of the best rolls I’ve had in
The Damage: Shin’s lunch prices are quite fair,
given the quality of the food, and the combos are a smart way to fill up at
lunchtime. There’s plenty of lunch combos to choose from, such as teriyaki and
tempura hot plates.
The Deduction: Perhaps Shin transforms through the
magic of lighting into a fine-dining experience at night, but I see it more as
upscale casual. Next time I’ll ignore my jaded side and try some of the fun,
Americanized rolls I usually order. Shin’s quality atmosphere, friendly
service, reasonable lunch prices, and fresh food will hopefully see it sticking
around for the long haul.
