The Down Low: If you’re a meat-eater, every now and again the rib fairy is going to call for you. But if you’re also one of those locally conscious kinds of carnivores, you’re going to want to stay away from chains but not go so far as the visit the guy with a rusted smoker on his front lawn. That’s where Sanford comes in, with its abundance of local rib joints, including the new Rockin’ Ribz at 2545 S. French Avenue where the old Rib Ranch used to be. It’s got a wide enough menu and just enough cheeky pizzazz to make it more than just another barbecue spot.
The Dish: One thing to love about these little local restaurants is that they know how to stuff a guy on a budget. In addition to a bunch of “weekday lunch specialz” for about $5, Rockin’ Ribz also has “daily specialz” for $6, leaving enough money in your pocket to try out a dessert or two. Something that’s both charming and annoying is their menu; everything on it ends in a “z,” as though the whole thing was written by lolcats.
For an appetizer I had the sweet corn nuggets for $4.99. It’s sort of like putting some sweet creamed corn into batter, frying it, and dusting it with powdered sugar. They’re surprisingly addictive, and the little bit of sugar sweetens the heaviness of them, so you’d do well to share.
One of the daily specials is the open-faced chopped pork on cornbread for $6, and the name pretty much says it all. Big, juicy chunks of chopped pork rest on several pieces of pan-fried cornbread, with your choice of sweet, mild, and hot barbecue sauce to pour over it. The cornbread quickly becomes overtaken by the pork and sauce, but is hearty enough that you might want to sneak a piece out on its own. With that I had a complimentary side of cole slaw, which of the many variations one can have it in, was prepared kind of dry and crunchy. It’s satisfying and not too sloppy, but it did have an odd vinegary aftertaste.
If you’re in for a bigger meal for lunch, you can get a full side of ribs done up in several different styles, all for a pretty decent price. I had the ol’-style ribs for $10.99, which came with two sides. As far as ribs go they were pretty standard, but that means pretty delicious, just not outstanding. They’re tough strips of meat that tear away from the bone easily, but a little light on the seasoning so you’ll want to help yourself to the sauces nearby.
For my sides I tried the macaroni and cheese and the sweet potato fries. The mac and cheese gets points for using real cheese, but the sauce was a little light and left too much of the pasta out in the open. The fries were delightfully squishy and served hot, making them a great, sweet side that goes well with barbecue sauce.
And for dessert I had the banana pudding for $3.50. Thick, sweet, and with just the right balance between vanilla and banana, but it’s too large a serving for after a meal, so grab an extra spoon and get someone to help.
The Digs: Rockin’ Ribz prides themselves on their kitschy décor, claiming that everything in there comes from the personal “collections” of the family that owns it. The tiny space is littered with all manner of signs, country paraphernalia, and gambling tables – what it lacks in cohesion it makes up for in good humor.
The Vibe: Proper preparation of ribs can be serious business, but Rockin’ Ribz has the feel of a fun diner that knows it’s serving good food, and can spare a little levity while serving you.
The Damage: With the lunch combos they have going, you’re bound to get stuffed for under $10.
The Bottom Line: Good ribs don’t have to be fancy, and with Rockin’ Ribz around, the haughtier places around town might want to think about loosening up.
Please log in to comment