McRaney's Tavern

By John Graham

Orlando CityBeat
February 27, 2007

 

McRaney's Tavern
Bars around Orlando change names and owners more often than an astronaut changes diapers. McRaney's Tavern used to be Fairbanks Tavern, which you shouldn't confuse with the old Fairbanks Inn ("FBI Liquor") that is now a medical facility. Despite the big "FBI" sign still out front, Florida Pulmonary Consultants isn't going to sell you a pint so it's back to McRaney's we go.

Arriving: McRaney's is co-owned by the guys who own The Social in downtown Orlando and they've fixed the place up a bit -- but just a bit. There's a fresh coat of paint and some landscaping, but it's still a smoky, lived-in pub. There's pool (free from 4-8 p.m.) and darts and a long wooden bar inside with a patio/beer garden out back that should be hopping once spring gets here.

Scoping: It's an old bar but a younger crowd, starting at "pierced lip with 'The Royal Tenenbaums' tracksuit" and topping out at "owned 'Zenyatta Mondatta' on vinyl." I laughed (to myself) when two redneck-looking types at the bar discussed the pros and cons of various tummy-trimming exercises.

Drinking: For an unassuming neighborhood joint, McRaney's carries a surprisingly deep selection of beers. You've got a dozen on draft in 16-ounce ($4.50) and 20-ounce ($5) glasses. Forty more bottled beers are available. One of my faves is Wittekirke ($4.50), which lets you be both a beer snob (it's Belgian wheat) and a beer slob (it comes in a can).

Chewing: There's no sandwiches or burgers, but the fish and chips ($6.75) are only a half-grade behind Long John Silver's fast-food quality and the tartar sauce was so thick that I first assumed it was coleslaw.

I'm sure no one in the kitchen is stuffing jalapenos with cheddar, but the pepper poppers ($6.25) are a reasonable facsimile of homemade. As for the boneless wings ($6.50), there's no such thing. "Boneless wings" are just funny-shaped chicken nuggets. That said, the menu promised 12 and I was given at least twice that. Even if the "wings" are shorter than wings, I'd still say I got a great deal.

Going: The bathroom has clearly seen a lot of action over the years, but smells more of cleanser than urine. Someone has put bar mirrors both over the urinals and behind them, so you can look yourself in the eye and the back of your head at the same time.

Departing: For a smoking bar, it's decent food at a decent price. Oh, it's not a deep menu, but it is enough to keep you from leaving the comfort of your barstool and pint to troll 17-92, looking for a Crunchwrap Supreme or BK Chicken Fries.

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