El Palenque pick

By Paul Hiebing

March 20, 2008

 

El Palenque
(Credit: MikeAnthony Moffa)
The Down Low: If there has been an ethnic food that’s been bastardized beyond recognition by the American palate, it’s got to be Chinese. But in a close second there’s Mexican food; Taco Bell having wrapped stereotypical Mexican food in our consciousness with a rubbery corn tortilla. Fortunately there are still places that do it authentic the way, like El Palenque at 12309 East Colonial Drive in Orlando, where everything tastes fresh and feels like a real meal, not just late-night filler.

The Digs: The outside of El Palenque looks kind of foreboding, with its dusty parking lot and handmade signs, but inside it’s bright and inviting. Handmade woodcut prints line the walls, the wait staff is friendly and polite, and even the grocery next door has things you want to take home.

The Delivery: A warm basket of tortillas and freshly-made salsa will tide you over while you wait for the main course, but watch yourself — the salsa is so good you may fill up on chips before the hot food arrives.

The Dish: If your experience with Mexican food is limited to a dollar menu (but then, honestly, you haven’t had Mexican food), the offerings at Palenque might teach you a few new terms, including sope (kind of like a tiny Mexican pizza) for $2.99, torta (a stuffed Mexican sandwich) for $5.99, and chile relleno (stuffed pepper) for $6.25. There are more familiar, and very Tex-Mex, items like super nachos ($8.99), crispy tacos ($2), and quesadillas ($5.99), but what sets these items apart has to be the freshness evident in each dish.

During the weekdays Palenque has lunchtime combo specials for $6.25 (on weekends they’re $6.75), and come with a side of rice and beans. My guest had the chimichanga combo plate with steak, and as soon as it arrived we saw the difference between Palenque and other Mexican joints. The tortilla flaked into multiple layers and had a semi-sweet flavor that wasn’t overpowered by frying oil, looking and tasting like it was handmade. The vegetables were fresh and the steak chewy, making it a very satisfying meal. Even the hot sauce my guest requested tasted like it came from fresh peppers and not a jar.

I had the gordita combo with chorizo, and was very glad to see that Taco Bell had been lying to me all these years. This gordita was a pocket made by a thick, soft corn tortilla (which I’d be happy to eat all on its own) and filled with refried beans, onions, cilantro, and tomato. The chorizo had a little zest and blended well with the cilantro and tortilla, leaving the tomatoes and beans to provide moistness to the meal. The sides of rice and beans were also excellent, as the rice was soft and not the typical tooth-chipper found in most Mexican restaurants, and the beans soft but not overly blended.

The Damage: Even if you don’t hit the lunchtime specials (which, honestly, only knock off about 50 cents or so), you’ll be hard pressed to spend over $20 on a two-person meal.

The Deduction: There are lots of restaurants around town that claim the “authentic” title, but El Palenque actually tastes like the label is true.

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