Copacabanapick

By Tim DiGravina

March 27, 2008

 

Copacabana
(Credit: MikeAnthony Moffa)

The Down Low:
Copacabana Cuban Latin just became my favorite Cuban restaurant in the Orlando area. In fact, it's one of my favorite restaurants period. It's a bit hidden next to an Albertsons in Apopka (across 436 from Wekiva Riverwalk), but it's a gem I'm hoping many people soon discover.


The Digs: I just happen to notice Copacabana during a quick grocery-store pit stop on my way home from Sweetwater and Wekiva; it's directly to the right of Albertsons, but the grocery store obscures the restaurant's front from 436. There's some tables out front under cover, and plenty of room to spread out inside in diner-style tables and chairs (nothing flashy), across from the glass displays that showcase most of the fantastic food. It's really all about the food, which Copacabana doles out in generous portions for just a few dollars. 

The Delivery: My guest and I were greeted by the gracious, super-friendly owner (originally from Miami) who rightly told us the best thing to do is let him point out foods. He made us feel extremely at home, as he described the ingredients in the items he recommended, and described the easy ins and outs of picking side items. Newcomers to Cuban and Latin food will have no problems at all finding something to relish. Cuban food aficionados will be in heaven. Sandwiches are made to order and lunch and dinner prices are the same. All the mainstays are behind glass, fresh, and ready to go in a second, from pollo asado (roasted chicken) to ropa vieja (shredded beef). I only had time for takeout during my visit late one night, but I stocked up enough selections for dinner and lunch the next afternoon. 

The Dish: All main dishes come with two side items. I ordered pollo asado ($4.50), a succulent, perfectly cooked and seasoned chicken breast with scrumptious mouth-watering yellow rice, and an ample serving of the best yucca I've ever tasted. I said yes to adding the addictive lime garlic mojo sauce, and boy was that a good choice. That stuff is fantastic. If you select yellow rice as your side, you can also get black beans (another good choice) added for no additional charge.

My guest couldn't resist the arroz imperial ($5.25), a popular, layered favorite, consisting of yellow rice, cheese, and shredded seasoned chicken, made with lots of labor, and making for a fine comfort food. Arroz imperial is the one entree that comes with a single side, and she selected the mainstay maduros, sweet plantains that put to shame the frozen variety served at many Cuban restaurants in town. Usually I find these too sweet, but Copacabana's were subtle and delightful.

The Cuban sandwich ($4.00) I ordered for lunch the next day was a work of art. From the tasty fresh bread to the fresh meats and mustard, I couldn't resist eating the entire sandwich in one go. four dollars later, I was more than full.

The food was so good, I knew the desserts were going to be special, and they didn't disappoint. The slice of flan ($1.50) was perfectly sweet, the large tres leches ($3.00) milk cake a rich fantasy, and the rice pudding ($1.50) spot on and excellent.

It's rare that I'm so impressed with every part of a meal.

The Damage: The meals at Copacabana are delicious feasts, for very low prices. Open at 7 a.m., they also serve breakfast each morning for $3.70 or $4.25. Five different coffee choices (four of them Cuban) are only 65 cents to $1.40.

The Deduction: Whether you love Cuban food or you're a first-timer, you're probably going to find something to love at Copacabana. It's worth the short trip to find out. They also do event catering for prices that can't be beat. The owner said business has been slow, and I think part of it is that it's blocked by Albertsons. I'm hoping word of mouth keeps the place going. Please spread the word if your taste buds come away as impressed as mine or pass this article on to somebody who lives closer.

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