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This week's Cheap Eats restaurant has moved around the last few years. First in Winter Park and then Lake Mary, Coconuts has now settled into Longwood's Township Plaza, near the intersection of State Road 434 and Rangeline Road. The spot was last occupied by a Mexican sandwich shop that had inexpensive tortas, but not much décor. Coconuts have made the space over, putting up a wall and painting both the floor and walls the same dark orange.
The biggest part of Coconuts' menu is pressed sandwiches. Of course, there's the traditional Cuban sandwich ($4.99) of ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, yellow mustard and pickles. You've also got the medianoche ($4.69), similar to a Cuban, but on sweet yellow bread – and a turkey Cuban ($4.59).
For me, pressed sandwiches are either fat and chewy or thinner and toasty. I'd put Coconuts in the second category – not at all underfilled, but a long and thin sandwich with bread that's almost crispy. I was most impressed by the steak and onions pressed sandwich ($4.69). Topped with lettuce, tomato and fried potato sticks, the steak is tender and cut just right, not so thin that it dries out and not so thick that you have to gnaw through it. Onions are sliced paper thin but, even after grilling, still have a little crunch.
A fat Cuban tamale is $2. Unlike the Mexican version, bits of ham are mixed throughout the masa instead of running down the middle. The beef empanada ($1.50) is a little light on filling, but served hot and fresh from the fryer. Ham croquetas (2 for $1.25) are made with mashed potatoes inside the fried crispy crust, reminding me of papa rellena ($1.50), which is also on the menu.
You can't go to a Cuban restaurant without trying the black beans and rice ($1.99 a pint). Oniony and creamy, my single complaint is that they need more salt.
Dish: Call me a softie, but I like it when I walk in a restaurant and the person behind the counter smiles at me ... and not with that “my boss makes me do this” half-hearted mug.
Damage: Coconuts has meal combos (drink and beans and plantains) that go above my $5 Cheap Eats limit, but a $4.99 sandwich is pretty filling on its own.
Decision: I've always considered it a good sign when I walk into a restaurant and see police or firefighters having lunch. I'm now going to add softball teams and lawn crews to my list – both groups that I saw eating at Coconuts.
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