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It was March of last year when I first visited Brix Eurobistro. It had just opened on the ground floor of the Metropolitan at Lake Eola condos. “Brix” is a wine term and the vino was pretty good. The food suffered though because Brix didn't have a full kitchen — more like a fridge, a soup pot and a griddle. Brix's owners must have also suffered because if it wasn't a festival weekend, hardly anyone would walk by.
Now, Brix has moved a few blocks away to the old Tijuana Flats on E. Central, an area with a lot more foot traffic. (TF has moved over to Thornton Park and should be open any day now.) The new Brix vibe is a little less trendy “Miami” and a little more utilitarian “Orlando.” The old location had a small interior and a gated bricked patio. The new location has a larger, brighter interior and a row of tables just off the sidewalk.
Scoping: I happened to hit Brix on a night when the Florida Music Festival was in full swing and The Police were playing at Amway Arena. Downtown was packed and so was Brix; younger couples smoking at the outside tables and older couples inside for the air conditioning. I came back on an early weeknight when the crowd was lighter. This time, a few more wine-sipping singles and a couple families with young kids.
Drinking: Good news, drinkers! Brix now has a liquor license. Wine by the glass and bottle are still a feature, but while the old wine list carried multiple glasses in the $20-$25 range, the new selections top out at $12. Maso Canali pinot grigio ($8) is citrusy and sweet and served a little warmer than I'd prefer. The Pine Ridge blended white ($8) hit notes of peach and grapefruit.
Organic Bonterra merlot ($8) is drinkable but disappointing in its lack of complexity. Sangria is served in a pint glass with way too much ice ($5) or in a cylindrical sharable “tower” ($40) that's set in the middle of the table. The pint glass margarita ($6) suffers in the same way as the sangria; too much crushed ice and not enough alcohol. For beer fans, a tall bottle of Tucher is a decent value (for downtown) at $6, though the server didn't ask whether I'd like a slice of orange – or a glass.
Chewing: The new Brix menu has many more choices, though if you were a fan of the fondues, those are still around. The spinach dip appetizer ($6.95) is thicker and richer than most, served with fresh-fried pita chips. “The Dip” sandwich ($7.50) is sliced beef and provolone, topped with crispy onions. Au jus comes on the side, but just a little “dip” had already been added to the sandwich when it arrived. The kitchen was out of the regular bread, so my server suggested a pretzel roll. I'll now suggest Brix serve it that way all the time. The side of waffle fries were average and rapidly cooling when they reached the table.
One advantage of having a full kitchen is that Brix can now make hamburgers. I'm not usually one for a stuffed burger ($8.95), but the horseradish cheddar patty has kick without sacrificing too much juiciness. It's clearly a hand-formed burger, browned properly by a cook who knows how to treat the meat.
The smoked salmon flatbread ($8.50) has a lot going on – salmon, pesto, herbed cream cheese, diced red onions, capers and lemon juice. The crust looks pre-made, cracker-crisp at the edges. Baking the capers and smoked salmon is overkill, cooking out subtleties and texture. Might I suggest baking and then adding the lox?
Going: With the removal of the Tijuana Flats hot sauce bar, there's now room for a faux arch leading back to the bathrooms. The walls of the men's room are currently covered in raw plywood. I imagine something new is coming; maybe “bricks?”
Departing: Overall, Brix has greatly improved its menu and expanded its alcohol selection, but dumbed down the wine list at the same time. Now that I've told you about the new Brix, someone ought to tell Brix's website and MySpace page. Both still indicate the old location.
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