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The Down Low: Philadelphia owns the cheese steak like a mother bear owns a cub, since a hoagie found outside of Philly might as well be grilled cheese. Which is a shame because Brianto's Original Hoagies at 12001 Avalon Lake Drive in Avalon Park, with its hometown firmly in mind, makes some mighty strong sandwiches, even if they are far from Philly, or much anyplace else in Orlando.

The Digs: Plastered with Philadelphia Phillies paraphernalia, right down to the lettering in their name, Brianto's is all about bringing a little slice of Pennsylvania to Orlando (and placing it neatly into a hoagie bun). Each table has a view of a television, which will likely be broadcasting a sports game (you can guess which team will get volume preference). Despite Orlando's plethora of manufactured authenticity, Brianto's manages to pull off the illusion of a Philadelphia neighborhood sandwich shop.

The Delivery: The staff is fast, good with the grill, and chatty about the food. Though sandwiches tend to come out in about five minutes, if your food is a little late there are plenty of players' stats on the wall to bide your time.

The Dish: The sandwiches are the main attraction at Brianto's, taking up most of the menu and ranging between $7.29 and $8.99 for a 12-inch behemoth, but there are also green salads for you carb counters (if you still exist). My guest and I started with a tortellini salad ($1.49), made with ham and cheeses. The dressing was the best part, amply coating each ingredient. We also had garlic bread with cheese ($1.99), but it didn't flood our mouths with garlicky butter as expected. Instead, the lightly melted mozzarella blended well with the bread, but filled us way too quickly.

My guest had a 12-inch chicken Philly supreme ($8.79), with chicken, onions, green peppers, mushrooms, and a choice of cheese (white American, provolone, or Cheez Whiz) on a hoagie roll. Provolone was the cheese, and it was lovingly layered into the juicy chicken and veggies. Surprisingly, the vegetables were limp but still flavorful, which is a welcomed change from typical, mushy sandwiches.

I tried the 12-inch cheese steak supreme ($8.79), with the same ingredients as the chicken except, of course, the chicken. Mine came with Cheez Whiz (kind of like a plain nacho sauce), and made a right mess of the table. Sloppiness aside, it was delicious, being rich but not overpowering.

For dessert we had a chocolate Tastykake ($1.29), a Philadelphia snack cake. It's not much different than Little Debbie or Hostess fare, but it's little touches like that make Brianto's stab at Philadelphia authenticity more genuine.

The Damage: A small 12-inch hoagie combo will run more than $10, but you're sure to have leftovers for tomorrow's lunch.

The Deduction: Not all sandwiches are created equal, and the extra attention put into Brianto's proves it.

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