Bento Cafe

By Tim DiGravina

Metromix Orlando
April 10, 2008

 

Bento Cafe

The Down Low: Between the two towers of the impressive Plaza development on Orange venue downtown, this fun, counter-service Pan-Asian cafe is an okay bet for a quick, if somewhat bland meal. The walk-in lunch crowd has taken over the place, but anyone looking for a bento box, noodle soup, sushi roll, or boba tea fix should leave at least partially satisfied.

The Digs: At the lunch hour, most of the customers seemed to be workers from nearby offices. My guest and I parked in the Plaza's maze-like garage and walked a short distance into the heart (or belly) of the Plaza to find a cafe that's a mix between modern, moody urban atmosphere and upscale office cafeteria. Chairs and booths are leather or faux-leather, and HDTVs are plentiful and also reflected perfectly in the glass walls. The overall grey-black color scheme isn't the most pleasing, but that's a matter of taste.

The Delivery: We were probably tenth in line behind the Dockers and necktie folks, but it moved fast, ordering was simple, they validated the parking for one hour, and we were given a number to place on our table. Our sushi appetizer arrived in less than three minutes, as the sushi chefs were getting no orders. Most customers had bento boxes or rice bowls. Our boxes came probably three minutes after the sushi. The friendly food runner offered to clear our table of excess candles and the like to make room for our food, but we were okay.

The Dish: I was very impressed with the Mt. Fuji rolls ($6.95 for eight pieces). Presented attractively on a large plate, it was fresh and tasty, with imitation crab, tempura shrimp, scallions, masago, and eel sauce, and topped in a delightful crab "delite." There's a wealth of sushi selections on a separate menu, plenty of signature rolls, sushi mix-and-match boxes, and nigiri. Bento Cafe's executive rolls, their original creations, look quite appealing and range from $8.95 to $9.75 for 10 rolls.

Our bento boxes ($7.50 each) weren't up to the level of the sushi in quality or taste, but I still give them a just-passing grade. My chicken bulgogi ($7.50) was good, but still on the bland side. It's listed as including a mild spicy sauce, but I couldn't detect even a hint of it. The chicken was fresh and with only a few chewy bites. My guest's Thai curry was better and a fairly decent rendition for what's basically a fast-food operation. The coconut curry sauce was only a tad spicier than the bulgogi, and my guest found it too salty; it's pretty much what you'd expect from a restaurant catering to a casual business audience.

Both boxes came with white rice, lukewarm but passable lo-mien noodles, a small, almost insignificant ginger salad, tasty chopped string beans, and a pleasant little dessert cake. My cake was topped with a yummy coconut-flaked icing.

My Thai tea with pearls ($3.75) didn't impress me too much. My guest's milk tea with pearls was tastier, but still nothing amazing.

The Damage: There are loads of choices and variations in the menu, which features Japanese, Thai, Chinese, Korean, and other Asian dishes. It's safe to assume your favorite Asian meal is on the menu. Bento boxes are $7.50, rice bowls are $6.75, and noodle soups or bowls are $6.95. And don't forget the sushi, also priced just right. Beer, sake, and plum wine round out the menu.

The Deduction: Bento Cafe serves lightning-fast meals at more than fair prices. The atmosphere is hit and miss, a little too clinical with all the grey. Hopefully Bento livens up the atomosphere at night. Had we known the meals would be so lightly spiced, we would have attempted to order them spicier, but the menu makes no mention of such an option. This small chain is a good idea, and I left very impressed with the sushi but disappointed at the blandness of the meals. Downtown Orlando is blessed with a wealth of authentic Asian eateries, so beyond the lunch hour Bento might have a struggle pulling in customers long term unless they take the locks off the spice racks. A little tweaking could go a long way.

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